I’ll even add pockets to patterns that don’t have them, because who doesn’t love a good pocket?! Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. My idea of a perfect day! follow me on instagram @jessyratfink to see what i'm working on! Step 1: Add a little fabric to each pattern piece (unless it already factors in enough fabric for French … It's very retro whimsical! Then turn it right side up and press that flat. Voila! (She’s known around the sewing shed as “Coco,” named after you-know-who.). This is pretty simple. I've learn to do this seam some years ago, the funny thing is that in Italy is called "cucitura inglese", english seam. Enjoy your pretty dress! Stitch the side seam and pocket edge again, ¼” from the edge, enclosing the raw edge of the seam inside. I would use it on side seams on blouses made in sheer fabrics like chiffon, organza, tulle, etc. French seams are not as scary as they're talked up to be. They're especially nice for clothes - no rough edges against the skin. (The understitching will be hidden inside of the pocket.) Otherwise, if you just hit the allowances with pinking shears and don't force the allowance any particular way, if both allowances (outer fabric and garment) decide to go the same way, you get an unsightly bunch inside lining and outer fabric that can be impossible to get rid of. :D. Take your two pieces of fabric and set them one of top of the other, wrong sides facing. This came at a good time with a new pattern I am working with. Step 1: Pin the front pocket piece to the front side seam of the dress, WRONG sides together, at the place indicated in the pattern. ^_^, Lady Gaga Cosplay - 2020 VMA's Halloween Costume. Ok I totally get how to do the French seam on one side. Sew an 1/8 inch from the right edge. Pin the side seam of the dress and outside edge of the pocket again. It helps if you cut a little “shelf” at the bottom of the pocket’s opening, like this one. You sew the seam again, a little wider this time, to enclose the raw edge inside of the two rows of stitching. Share it with us! French seams are amazingly strong, so they're great for purses, totes, clothing and all sorts of home decor items! Putting the wrong sides together is the... 3. 7 years ago The big advantage in a lined garment is that when you place wrong sides of "outer" fabric and liner together, you can force the excess of the seam in opposite directions when you sew the two together. To create a French seam, you first sew a very narrow seam WRONG sides together, then flip and press the garment pieces to be RIGHT sides together. Thank you! Thank you for this tutorial. Rulerwork for Beginners Series, Part 5: Diamonds. Note: this seam will not meet the pocket seam that you sewed earlier. Sew close to edge (of seam allowance. Then sew the rest of the side seam up to the top of the dress. You'll need two strips of fabric, a sewing machine and an iron. (Note: In the pattern I’m using, the seam allowances are designed to be 3/8” wide. This “understitching” will help secure the pocket inside the dress, so it doesn’t come peeking out. Hi everyone! Now how do I complete the other side??? Take your two pieces of fabric and set them one of top of the other, wrong sides facing. Starting at the bottom, you’re going to sew a 1/8” seam up the side seam, go around the pocket edge, and then up the rest of the side seam to the top. I use them on any clothes I sew! This technique probably has been around for more than 100 years, and I knew it would work well on lightweight cotton lawn fabric. Is that correct? Turn the dress and the pocket inside out, so they’re right sides together. Trim the seam allowance down by several millimeters as dictated by your sewing pattern. (It helps if you put your hand inside of the pocket and push it out all along the seamline before you press.) You can use the inside of the right “toe” of presser foot #1C as a guide. Step 2: Stitch the pocket from top to bottom at the side seam, using a narrow 1/8” seam. You can use French seams with just about any dress pattern that has interior pockets on the side seams. Now, it can be a little tricky to maneuver a French seam around a pocket, but by using this tried-and-true vintage method, it works just fine. I wanted a chic and clean finish for the inside seams, so I decided to go old-school and make French seams. Unfold the fabric, and lay it flat in the table. Press to set the stitches. Like if I were making a skirt?? But read the next step before you proceed, because it’s a little tricky. I think I understand in my head but would love to see how the other side is done. Vicki Tilton (IAA65-69). Be sure to enclose the raw edge inside of the new seam. Neat! I love to sew on vaca—how about you? On custom made dresses made by designers, you would find this finish inside because they know that in dressmaking inside matters as well as the outside. Pin along the side seam and around the outside edge of the pocket. Use the same technique to attach the rear pocket piece to the back piece of the dress at the side seam. Very good tutorial. WHEN TO USE IT: Sheer/lightweight/delicate fabrics. Sew a row of stitching 1/8” away from the seam, on top of the pocket, catching both the pocket and the seam allowances underneath in the stitching. Oh I love French seams! This is the easiest and quickest way I've found to do them - sewing 1/8 and then 1/4 inch seam allowances keeps you from having to spend time cutting extra fabric off, and also keeps you from having to account for a really large seam allowance. Press the seam flat, and then press the side seam open, leaving the pocket inside of the dress. Don’t sew to the garment). Hi Julie, How to Sew a French Seam Step 1: What You'll Need:. I guess I'm blind but I didn't see what the tutorial was showing me, I'm just as confused now as before reading. Press the seam flat and clip the seam allowance at the top and bottom of the pocket. Funny, in Italy this is called English seam :D Nice ible.